Fes is like a city taken straight out of 1001 Nights with a million winding side streets and alleyways which you follow at random until eventually you have to admit you’re totally lost. At which point a cheeky local kid will come along and for 5 dirhams offer to guide you out again. It’s infuriating but really you have no choice unless you want to wander the old city all day…

Fes is an amazing place to visit but can also be quite an intense experience as the hustlers can be very persistent and often display the worst of the loud, pushy Arabic vibe, never taking no for an answer to whether you’ll come to the their shop, hire them as a tour guide or eat in their restaurant, only ever extracting a promise for ‘tomorrow’ or ‘later’ and then they’ll call you a liar if you don’t come…

As always in Morocco, the best answer to whether you’ll come later is enshallah – only if God wants. (See Moroccan Arabic phrases!)

Still, you can have fun buying yourself an Arabic flute (called a nay) and learning to play it on the rooftop terrace of your hotel, eating bean soup in the mornings and getting lost in the afternoons. Just as in Marrakech, keep a cool head and a firm resolve when hassled in the street.